I catch the early morning ferry from Rawene to Kohukohu and ride through the the small back roads to the start of Ninety Mile beach and the settlement of Ahipara, where I grab a quick coffee and take a look at this vast expanse of sand that takes up the last of the west coast. The sunshine state down as I ride up Hwy 1 and eventually come to Cape Reinga, the most northerly point of NZ (at lease without taking a large hike). A lighthouse watches over this treacherous stretch of water where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean and boils away as both bodies of water struggle for dominance.
I spend about an hour just wonder around this beautiful spot and feeling the ocean winds blow strong on my face and breath in then fresh raw air, before mounting the bike for quick stop at the giant sand dunes at the north end of Ninety Mile Beach, which are very reminiscent of Namibia, then a slow ride down to Pekenui which I reach just before sunset. The following day I contained on Hwy 1 until Awanui , where I h ad east and towards Doubtless Bay, so called because Cpt Cook noted in his log, "doubtless a bay"! Here there are a collection of small settlements and upmarket hotels, which all enjoy the calm waters of the blue hour our which is protected from the ocean winds. I stop in the final of these places in Mongonui, where is buy food in the only supermarket I have ever been in that stands on stilts over the water.
My destination for the night is off the Hwy at Matauti Bay, with a large stretch of beach to one side and a jutting headland to the north. This is the final resting place of the Rainbow Warrior, that was sunk on the ord rs of the French government in Auckland harbour on 10th July 1985. It was refloated then scuttled just off of Matauti , amongst the 17 Cavalli Islands that sit just off shore.
I wake early and take a long walk down the beach and enjoy the sunrise and the crashing rollers that come in from the Pacific, it's the perfect way to start the day. I'm in no hurry to leave camp, as my next destination of Russell in the Bay of islands is only70kms away. The small settlement of Russell with a population of 720 is now a calm backwater, but in 1850 it was den of iniquity and debauchery, where whaling ships would set anchor for the crew to go ashore for some R&R "root & run" 😉. Sadly these times have passed and I had to resort to just a couple of cold beers in NZ's oldest fishing club, The Bay of Islans Swordfish Club, where I simply enjoyed the view from the balcony.
The next morning I wake to rain showers, but who cares it's my last day on the road in NZ and nothing is going to stop my enjoyment.
I ride off on the small back roads that litter the way to Cape Brett, turning south through Ngiotonga and through to Helena Bay, where I enjoy a coffee with a view, before join Hwy1 for a fast ride down to Auckland and the home of Brenton and Maria.
Over the weekend I get the GS cleaned up and ready for shipment to Australia, then on Monday Brenton helps me load her in to a crate that he has scrounged from a local bike dealer and on Wednesday 22nd we take her down to the warehouse for shipment to Syndey.
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