I have great admiration for the way both New Zealand and Australia remember and teach the younger generations the sacrifices that were made during the First World War and in following conflicts. I never really understood this until ten years ago I was fortunate enough to be able to attend the dawn service for ANZAC Day at Gallipoli in Turkey.
Gallipoli was on my route through Turkey, but the ceremony was not a conscious on my radar, I just happened to be in the right place at the right time. It was however a deeply moving service, in part due to its location on the cliffs of Gallipoli and the thought of young boys being ordered to attack up cliffs, as they had been landed at the wrong location.
There were speeches from politicians who proclaim to feel a nations loss and the pain those at home must have felt, all bollocks as normal, but what did feel special was the amount the Aussie and Kiwi kids that had made the effort to come and pay their respects at a place that is part for both countries national psyche.
I reflected then that is was sad we did not teach our younger generation enough about the First World War. They may know a little about the second, but the first is ancient history for them. How ever as a nation is was also a defining moment, indeed for the British Empire. The world and our nation would never be the same and it laid open the twentieth century to a new direct, both good and bad.
So it felt correct to attend the ANZAC dawn service again while in Australia on 25th April, this time in the small town of Norseman, WA. I strolled through the dark streets at 5.30am to the small gathering at the war memorial in the centre of town. There were around 35 people in attendance and an assortment of local police and no doubt a mayor. It was very respectful, peaceful and in a way calming. The speeches were made, the flags were raised and the last post was played through a rather temperamental PA system. I spoke to a few of the attendees and was invited to breakfast at the town hall just opposite, it was a charming gesture.
After eggs , bacon and toast I walked back to vamp and packed everything away and got ready for the road. I decided to take the dirt road through to Hyden , the road is good and smooth, with only a minor damp patches and the odd road train. It's a national holiday, so most people are busy do nothing. In Hayden there is a strangely shaped rock formation that looks like a wave and of course is called Wave Rock. I push on to do more miles, the sky is clear and it's not oppressively hot and I reach the town of Corrrigin with an hour to go before sunset, perfect.
In the morning I'm up and on the road for 7.30 and enjoy the chill of the morning air, before stopping for coffee in York, Australia's first inland settlement, apparently. From here I head to Fremantle, for one purpose only, to visit the last resting place of the worlds greatest rock front man, Bon Scott of AC/DC!
I stop for lunch over looking the Indian Ocean just north of Perth and let the moment sink in; I've crossed Australia coast to coast! I relax in the warm sea breeze before heading to the small coastal town of Lancelin, which I'm assured by a couple at the cafe is a lovely place to spend a night. I arrive to this shabby dump to watch a magnificent sunset of the Indian Ocean and stay in rough and ready caravan park, where most of the vans are of the static variety, I've trailer trash ! The supermarkets closed and the only restaurant is a chip shop. But this all made up for by the spectacular sunset.
I ride just 250 miles to my rest stop of Geraldton, where I have organised a front tyre and for the oil to be replaced. I drop in to the dealership and make sure all is good for the following day before finding a campsite, high I do just by the beach. Once I sit down I feel overcome with tiredness having done 7 big days riding, I need to get jobs done and then take a rest. Ingest the bike in to the dealer for 8 am and try to find some breakfast, but I struggle and end up having fried rice and coffee at some strange establishment. On the way back I bump in to a fella that I met the previous day when trying to find the campsite and he offers to show me around town, at least what there is of it.
Now here lies a grudge I have with Lonely Planet. I chose Geraldton as a stop point, as its not too big and you can "soak up some coffee and culture in Geraldtons museums, galleries and cafes". Well there's a problem straight away using the word culture when connected to any where in Australia, but the LP description of Geraldton is so far off the make as can ever imagine. It even has it as one of WA's must see highlights, which might say more for the lack of anything of interest than it does about LP. The fact remains that the town is little more than a mid way staging post when driving up the west coast and a giant grain and iron ore port, all on its way to China.
The only thing of mild interest is the memorial to the HMAS Syney that was lost in battle with a Germany ship in 1941, with the loss of all 645 men on board. Ross my guide does however show me one great experience and that is taking his Toyota 4wd down a the beach and then across the sand dunes, which was a real blast.
Bike collected, laundry and shopping done, it was time to put my feet up and have a barbie and of course with a cold beer from the local drive through bottle shop, and consume said beer while watching the sun set over the Indian Ocean.
The next day I try to lie in, but my body clock is set for 6am, so I rise and watch the sun paint the sky orange and yellow. I do eventually find a cafe and linger over coffee and maps and while way the morning. In the afternoon I find a swimming pool and do some laps to get the muscles working, as riding the bike is tiring , but it's not exercise and I miss movement.
Sunday I out of camp by 7am to make the most of the cool air and I head to the town of Kalbarri where I take in the surf break while having a coffee , before riding to the NP of the same name. However once there I'm informed the access road it closed, or at least not open to normal traffic and I can only go on a tour, well bollocks to that. I head off on the hwy with Carnavon set in the GPS.
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